1) MATERIALS
Let’s look at how we can build it now that we know what we want to build. The carcass frame is made of 25mm thick profiles. These can be made of melamine board or veneered MDF sheet. Although veneered chipboard is also available, working with MDF is much more pleasant. The back panels can be thinner; in this instance, they are 12 mm thick. and 16mm sheet is used to cut the drawers. Finding the finish you want should be fairly simple because veneered panels are typically available at your neighborhood lumberyard and come in a wide variety of finishes. Wardrobe Design
No visible rough edges will remain because the panels can be purchased with finished edge banding. Thus, it is worthwhile to conduct some due diligence and locate a supplier who can offer both CNC cutting service and in-house edge banding. Or, you can band yourself if you have the necessary courage. Your starting point will be made clear to you after watching this tutorial. The previously mentioned exploded image shows the necessary panels that make up the carcass. The panels can be cut with a circular saw or by outsourcing the job to a CNC machine for the most precise finish. Although cutting veneered panels can be challenging if you’ve never done it before because the veneer is prone to cracking. If you haven’t already, be sure to read our previous post where we talked about CNC-cutting.
2) WOODEN DOWELS
Several different methods could be used to join these profiles together, but we’re only going to focus on one in this article. And that is the use of wooden dowels. What is the process then? Drill alignment holes on the inside faces of the two profiles we wish to join, add a little wood glue, place dowels in the holes, and then push the profiles together. Effective yet simple. The difficult part of drilling by hand is getting the holes to line up perfectly, so using a hole jig is the solution. Making sure the holes are drilled square to the face will help prevent slanted dowels, which only cause problems during assembly. A good rule of thumb is to always use dowels that have a diameter less than half of the profile thickness. The size of the dowel depends on the thickness of the material Never forget to verify the recommended hole size for the dowels you’ve selected because sizes can vary. For a tight fit, use a drill bit that is the same size as the dowel’s diameter. The hole must be half as long as the dowel, plus some extra for glue. The dowels used here are 8mm x 30mm, so the holes on both joining panels are 8mm wide and 16mm deep.
DRAWER ASSEMBLY
These drawers use push-to-open drawer runners and are constructed from 16mm profiles. To put it another way, handles are not required. Quadro With P2O is the name of the drawer runners used in this illustration. The configuration of the drawer assembly will depend on the choice of drawer runner made from the many available options on the market. As a result, you should already know which runners to use before calculating the final dimensions. We can see that these runners are fixed to the bottom profile of the drawer, which is offset from the bottom face of the side profiles, if we look at the illustration above and the manufacturer’s drawing below. Consequently, the runners are concealed when you pull out the drawer. It’s a clever method for giving your wardrobe a nice, modern vibe. The runners’ fixing plate attaches to the carcass profiles using screws. These need to be set up, primarily by drilling pilot holes to identify the screw centers. As was already mentioned, a hole jig is typically the best tool to use for the locations. Hand-measuring each hole can be inaccurate and easily result in the drawers being out of alignment. We first need to scratch our heads and make some calculations to determine the dimensions for the drawer assembly. One thing to keep in mind is that there must be a tolerance between each drawer, which is typically 2 to 4 mm. Therefore, when dividing the available space equally, these gaps must be taken into account when planning the drawer dimensions. How the dimensions were determined in this example is shown in the section detail that is shown below. In order to divide the height of 784mm evenly among the four drawers, we need to subtract the five times 2mm gap from the total clearance of 794mm. This equals 196mm, which will be the height of the drawer front panel. Additionally, we also want the drawer’s sides to have a 2mm gap.
SHELVING & LIGHTING
This wardrobe’s shelving is made from the same 25mm sheet as the carcass. The shelf supports are hidden plug-in shelf supports that hold the profiles in place because they are cut to fit snugly (0.5 mm tolerance on either side). Additionally, the shelves will be detachable as a result. These pins leave a portion of the pin sticking out after being inserted into the holes in the carcass profile. The “sticking out bit” is then tucked into a rebate in the shelving profile, effectively hiding the pin. Again, if you’re having everything CNC cut, the machine can route in these holes instead of drilling them with a jig. The shelf profile needs to be slightly altered in order to add some LED lighting. The LED strip housing must first be rebated into the profile to ensure a flush fit. The housing profile you intend to use will therefore determine the size of the routed slot. In this illustration, the LED housing’s light is angled at a 45-degree angle. We want to avoid having glare from outside the shelf compartment by lighting only the interior of it. The light can be directed effectively by using an angled light source. Cutting the slot in the panel at an angle is another typical fix. Of course, power is necessary for all lighting. Consequently, a cable must be run from the LED to the driver, which is connected to a power source. One way to achieve this is to route a recess on the shelf profile’s side, as is demonstrated above. The cable will neatly tuck in and remain totally concealed. The cable can be fed through by drilling a small hole in the back panel. Nothing looks more bogy than a tangle of cables, so all the electrical connections should be made neatly behind the wardrobe.
FLUSH SLIDING DOORS
The flush sliding doors are this wardrobe’s best feature, so let’s get to that. Regular sliding doors always have a gap between the front faces because of the way they run offset from one another. Which honestly doesn’t look all that great. The doors stay flush when the flush sliding doors are closed, however. This gives the wardrobe a much more modern and refined appearance. Of course, the price premium is a trade-off, but if that’s the look you’re going for, it’s still worthwhile. So how do these sliding doors function in practice? Looking at the illustration above, it is clear that the runners enable the door to open outward before sliding over the other door. Runners must be installed on the top and bottom of the carcass for this to happen. You can view the manufacturer’s instructional video below if you prefer to skip my explanation of how the assembly functions. When you read the manual thoroughly, everything starts to make a lot more sense, even if it initially seems a bit overly complicated. Looking at a section detail like the one below can be a great tool to aid in our understanding of this assembly. Now it is clear why the top and bottom profiles of the carcass must be offset in order to provide room for the runners. To fix the assembly, the top of the wardrobe needs not only a 60mm offset but also at least 130mm of clearance from the ceiling, so keep that in mind. In order to avoid this, always check the necessary clearances for the type of runners you intend to use before designing the carcass.
CONCLUSION
Just keep in mind that there is really no right or wrong way to design a wardrobe. If you asked five carpenters (or designers) to construct something, they would all have at least seven different suggestions. Everything is fine as long as you are satisfied with the outcome and nothing falls apart. There are many other ways to approach this project besides the one we’ve looked at here.
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